Whenever someone turns on a hot water faucet, heated water is drawn from the top of the tank and is replaced by cold water that is carried to the bottom through the dip tube. When the water temperature drops, a thermostat activates the two heating elements. An electric heater needs no venting. An anti-corrosion anode attracts corrosion that would otherwise attack the tank's walls.

Maintenance For Good, Safe Service

Safety note: Electricity should be turned off at the circuit breaker before you do any work.

	Open the drain valve at the bottom about every 6 months, letting the water run into a bucket until it looks clear (usually about 5 gallons). This will prevent sediment accumulation. If there are bits of metal or rust in the water see Draining and Flushing section below and have the anode replaced.
	Annually test the temperature-pressure buildup by lifting or depressing the pressure release (TPR) valve's handle and draining water from the overflow pipe. If water doesn't drain out, shut off water to the heater, open a hot water faucet somewhere in the house, and replace the valve.

Draining and Flushing the Tank

	Turn off the circuit breaker to the water heater.
	Close the cold water valve.
	Attach a hose to the drain valve, to route water into a floor drain or outdoors.
	Open the drain valve and open one hot water faucet somewhere in the house to let in air.
	When all water has drained, turn the cold water valve on and off until the water from the drain looks clear.
	Close the drain valve and the hot water faucet, open the cold water valve and restore power.

If Water Temperature is a Problem:

Turn off the circuit breaker to the tank. Open both side panels with a screwdriver. Remove the insulation and you will see the thermostats. Do not make major adjustments -- make them incrementally over a period of one week. Always replace the insulation and panel covers before turning the circuit breaker back on.